Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Visitors!
2/19/08
Today our visitors arrived. Joyce Wanda and 12 of her friends, including AAH board members and major donors are visiting the school and touring the country. They came for the clinic opening. The students put on an impressive assembly to greet them. Their smiling dancing faces bring such joy to my heart!
If any of you would like to visit, I would LOVE to have you!
It's 2 am and I'm going to bed now - gnight!
Today our visitors arrived. Joyce Wanda and 12 of her friends, including AAH board members and major donors are visiting the school and touring the country. They came for the clinic opening. The students put on an impressive assembly to greet them. Their smiling dancing faces bring such joy to my heart!
If any of you would like to visit, I would LOVE to have you!
It's 2 am and I'm going to bed now - gnight!
Bupoto Clinic opening
2/16/08
We packed 50 students into a 38 seat bus and hired a mutatu for the teachers and guest and headed to a village about 3 kilometers from Kenya called Bupoto. Joyce Wanda, a founder of AAH, grew up Bupoto and after losing 4 sisters to preventable/treatable diseases, AAH built a clinic there. The village is set on the slopes of Mt. Elgon, which is the 8th or 9th tallest/biggest peak in Africa. The rocky face reminds me of the Rockies, but the green green matooke that speckles its sides resembles Hawaiian volcanic peaks.
The day was full of festivities. The new clinic is the biggest thing that has likely ever happened in this village. Well, maybe the school that Idi Amin had built in memory of one of his colleagues who grew up there was nearly as big a deal to the town, but that was back in the 80s. The new clinic will hopefully offer care to thousands of people who reside miles and miles away from the nearest hospital or medical facility.
The day was full of festivities that began around 1 pm and finished around 5:30 and consisted primarily of a forever long ceremony. We were so pleased to have the entire village present as well as many district officials, chairmans, and important visitors from Kampala. In this culture, everyone official must have a chance to speak, and it seems to me that everyone is official in some way. Speeches typically begin with, “I will be brief in congratulating…” Then they turn into prolific 30 minute orations acknowledging everyone present and everyone who contributed. They then go on explaining one’s personal contribution to the celebrated cause. Simply said, ceremonies are a long ordeal. (Our P-7 graduation lasted 3.5 hours, not including the meal.) However, the dancing and music is amazing and I’m learning to endure.
P.S. As a special guest, I received another chicken. I’m up to 6 now!
We packed 50 students into a 38 seat bus and hired a mutatu for the teachers and guest and headed to a village about 3 kilometers from Kenya called Bupoto. Joyce Wanda, a founder of AAH, grew up Bupoto and after losing 4 sisters to preventable/treatable diseases, AAH built a clinic there. The village is set on the slopes of Mt. Elgon, which is the 8th or 9th tallest/biggest peak in Africa. The rocky face reminds me of the Rockies, but the green green matooke that speckles its sides resembles Hawaiian volcanic peaks.
The day was full of festivities. The new clinic is the biggest thing that has likely ever happened in this village. Well, maybe the school that Idi Amin had built in memory of one of his colleagues who grew up there was nearly as big a deal to the town, but that was back in the 80s. The new clinic will hopefully offer care to thousands of people who reside miles and miles away from the nearest hospital or medical facility.
The day was full of festivities that began around 1 pm and finished around 5:30 and consisted primarily of a forever long ceremony. We were so pleased to have the entire village present as well as many district officials, chairmans, and important visitors from Kampala. In this culture, everyone official must have a chance to speak, and it seems to me that everyone is official in some way. Speeches typically begin with, “I will be brief in congratulating…” Then they turn into prolific 30 minute orations acknowledging everyone present and everyone who contributed. They then go on explaining one’s personal contribution to the celebrated cause. Simply said, ceremonies are a long ordeal. (Our P-7 graduation lasted 3.5 hours, not including the meal.) However, the dancing and music is amazing and I’m learning to endure.
P.S. As a special guest, I received another chicken. I’m up to 6 now!
Bupoto Clinic opening
2/16/08
We packed 50 students into a 38 seat bus and hired a mutatu for the teachers and guest and headed to a village about 3 kilometers from Kenya called Bupoto. Joyce Wanda, a founder of AAH, grew up Bupoto and after losing 4 sisters to preventable/treatable diseases, AAH built a clinic there. The village is set on the slopes of Mt. Elgon, which is the 8th or 9th tallest/biggest peak in Africa. The rocky face reminds me of the Rockies, but the green green matooke that speckles its sides resembles Hawaiian volcanic peaks.
The day was full of festivities. The new clinic is the biggest thing that has likely ever happened in this village. Well, maybe the school that Idi Amin had built in memory of one of his colleagues who grew up there was nearly as big a deal to the town, but that was back in the 80s. The new clinic will hopefully offer care to thousands of people who reside miles and miles away from the nearest hospital or medical facility.
The day was full of festivities that began around 1 pm and finished around 5:30 and consisted primarily of a forever long ceremony. We were so pleased to have the entire village present as well as many district officials, chairmans, and important visitors from Kampala. In this culture, everyone official must have a chance to speak, and it seems to me that everyone is official in some way. Speeches typically begin with, “I will be brief in congratulating…” Then they turn into prolific 30 minute orations acknowledging everyone present and everyone who contributed. They then go on explaining one’s personal contribution to the celebrated cause. Simply said, ceremonies are a long ordeal. (Our P-7 graduation lasted 3.5 hours, not including the meal.) However, the dancing and music is amazing and I’m learning to endure.
P.S. As a special guest, I received another chicken. I’m up to 6 now!
We packed 50 students into a 38 seat bus and hired a mutatu for the teachers and guest and headed to a village about 3 kilometers from Kenya called Bupoto. Joyce Wanda, a founder of AAH, grew up Bupoto and after losing 4 sisters to preventable/treatable diseases, AAH built a clinic there. The village is set on the slopes of Mt. Elgon, which is the 8th or 9th tallest/biggest peak in Africa. The rocky face reminds me of the Rockies, but the green green matooke that speckles its sides resembles Hawaiian volcanic peaks.
The day was full of festivities. The new clinic is the biggest thing that has likely ever happened in this village. Well, maybe the school that Idi Amin had built in memory of one of his colleagues who grew up there was nearly as big a deal to the town, but that was back in the 80s. The new clinic will hopefully offer care to thousands of people who reside miles and miles away from the nearest hospital or medical facility.
The day was full of festivities that began around 1 pm and finished around 5:30 and consisted primarily of a forever long ceremony. We were so pleased to have the entire village present as well as many district officials, chairmans, and important visitors from Kampala. In this culture, everyone official must have a chance to speak, and it seems to me that everyone is official in some way. Speeches typically begin with, “I will be brief in congratulating…” Then they turn into prolific 30 minute orations acknowledging everyone present and everyone who contributed. They then go on explaining one’s personal contribution to the celebrated cause. Simply said, ceremonies are a long ordeal. (Our P-7 graduation lasted 3.5 hours, not including the meal.) However, the dancing and music is amazing and I’m learning to endure.
P.S. As a special guest, I received another chicken. I’m up to 6 now!
Cake and chickens
2/15/08
Today was David’s birthday. Birthdays aren’t that big of a deal in Uganda, which is such a travesty if you ask me. We celebrated with chicken for dinner (I have a few to spare these days) and cake. The cake came from Mbale and was most likely made a week ago. We bought it from a vendor who had it in the same case as watches and jewelry. It looked like the top of a wedding cake! The icing is rock hard – enough to keep it fresh for a long time. The cake tasted similar to a spice cake, but it just isn’t the same. I haven’t eaten a lot of sweets here, so the treat was actually a not so delightful addition to my diet. Too sweet for me – or maybe just too weird.
This evening, I checked out Robert’s idea for a chicken coup. His idea is good and I would love to help. He needs 80 hens to produce 60-70 good eggs a day which is enough to sell in Mbale. A hen runs between 3,000-4,500 shillings a piece depending on how large and mature it is. They generally take about 3 months to begin producing so it is difficult to pay back a loan from a microfinance group, which usually entails up to 50% interest and payments begin after a month. Any way, I think Robert thinks I’m going to pay for this endeavor. Negotiating here is interesting – it’s like a dance. My genuine interest is interpreted as genuine interest in funding the project. Uh oh! Before I knew it, Robert named the coup after me and mused about making a sign with my name on it. YIKES! Back to the dance, I’m learning that showing any interest is almost equivalent to showing that you want the item. I told Robert thank you so much for honoring me in that way but that I prefer that he does not tell people my name – that way the whole neighborhood will not approach me for micro financing. Needless to say, Robert and his family are so generous and delightful. His wife, Mary, makes the BEST stewed tomato sauce that is so good on chipatis.
Today was David’s birthday. Birthdays aren’t that big of a deal in Uganda, which is such a travesty if you ask me. We celebrated with chicken for dinner (I have a few to spare these days) and cake. The cake came from Mbale and was most likely made a week ago. We bought it from a vendor who had it in the same case as watches and jewelry. It looked like the top of a wedding cake! The icing is rock hard – enough to keep it fresh for a long time. The cake tasted similar to a spice cake, but it just isn’t the same. I haven’t eaten a lot of sweets here, so the treat was actually a not so delightful addition to my diet. Too sweet for me – or maybe just too weird.
This evening, I checked out Robert’s idea for a chicken coup. His idea is good and I would love to help. He needs 80 hens to produce 60-70 good eggs a day which is enough to sell in Mbale. A hen runs between 3,000-4,500 shillings a piece depending on how large and mature it is. They generally take about 3 months to begin producing so it is difficult to pay back a loan from a microfinance group, which usually entails up to 50% interest and payments begin after a month. Any way, I think Robert thinks I’m going to pay for this endeavor. Negotiating here is interesting – it’s like a dance. My genuine interest is interpreted as genuine interest in funding the project. Uh oh! Before I knew it, Robert named the coup after me and mused about making a sign with my name on it. YIKES! Back to the dance, I’m learning that showing any interest is almost equivalent to showing that you want the item. I told Robert thank you so much for honoring me in that way but that I prefer that he does not tell people my name – that way the whole neighborhood will not approach me for micro financing. Needless to say, Robert and his family are so generous and delightful. His wife, Mary, makes the BEST stewed tomato sauce that is so good on chipatis.
Prosperous Day
Today was an “I love my life” day! This world is absolutely amazing to me! The day began as a fairly regular day. I went to school and did my reading period. The P1 class and I drew rainbows while we read, “A Rainbow for Dinner.”
At lunch, Koloba Steven’s wife, Beth, delivered potatoes and chapatti for us Mzungus. It was a welcome treat after weeks, and many weeks to come, of posho, beans, and cabbage for lunch.
I read to P4 and P7 today as well. The students must think I’m crazy because I use a lot of silly animation while reading. They seem to like it and are very engaged in the stories. We discussed new vocabulary words, morals or lessons learned, and what a prologue is. I am excited to continue reading aloud to the students. I believe they will benefit greatly from hearing English and learning to love books.
In the afternoon, I joined the choir in preparing for their performance this weekend at the Bupoto Clinic opening. Teacher Nelson had them out in the field practicing a traditional dance to the beating drums. I joined in! The students LOVE it when we participate. Part of the dance was milking a cow. As you can imagine, I have no idea how to milk a cow!
After school we started our clubs. I am in charge of the writing club. This is exciting and hopefully we’ll be able to write a school newsletter. The concept of clubs is new to the students so pretty much the entire school wants to join the club. We’ll see how it turns out…
After clubs, at about 5:00 pm, Nandala Caroline invited me to her home. She said, “Teacher Charlee, you are visiting today, yes?” I thought, why not and asked, “How far do you live?” She replied, “I live near far.”
Now, let me tell you for a second about near and far. Distance seems irrelevant to these people. They walk miles and miles, or should I say kilometers and kilometers, to get places. And their walk is not just on the sidewalk. Only a few roads, which are dusty or muddy depending on the season, exist. Alternatively, paths that are like hiking trails sprawl up the mountains and around the valleys like a web. The people know the way around these paths without any signs to mark them. To me, near means around the corner, which I realize is another relative term. But here, near means around the MOUNTAIN! Far is up and around the mountain and over the hills into a valley past the last two mountains and valleys.
So I went to Caroline’s house. We climbed and climbed and climbed and when we arrived at an opening in the path, she said, “We are near,” and pointed to a home across the valley another half mile away. We arrived at 6:15. I LOVE hiking around through the trails here. The reason I love going on the trails is because I get to see the life here. The trails cross right onto people’s porches and everyone is out. I see mostly women who are working preparing meals and men who are carrying things on their heads. Children are EVERYWHERE! Seriously, everywhere. I can’t even tell you how wonderful and beautiful it is to see these children all over the place.
I quickly learned that Mzungus are “most welcome.” Anywhere I go people are super excited to see me. They thank me so much for coming to their village and everyone invites me to their home. When I greet them in Lagisu, the local language, they brighten up. This behavior is especially true amongst the adults and more particularly by elderly women. Everyone is grateful for my work and for coming to Uganda. I feel quite humbled by it. I wish the entire world could be so kind and welcoming to strangers and neighbors alike.
So we finally made it to Caroline’s place after I thought I was going to die hiking up the mountain. Thank goodness I had four guides from school to show me the way. I’m proud to say I kept up with them. When we arrived, all the neighbors came to see me and Caroline’s mother welcomed me. “You are most welcome,” is their formal greeting.
I sat in their living room for a few minutes and chatted with Caroline’s mother who spoke beautiful English. Then, after speaking in Lugisu with her children she turned to me and said, “Caroline told me you would like to milk a cow.”
Huh??!?!? Are you serious??? I didn’t tell her that, but maybe she got that while we were dancing.
So the next thing I know, I have udders in my hands! Hahahahahahahahaha! I milked a cow!!
The entire family was there to enjoy the moment. One of the babies was only a week old! He was SO precious, but it was kind of weird when his mother pulled out her breast in the middle of a conversation with me and began to feed him. Yeah, that’s normal!!!
The people are obsessed with cameras. The nicest thing I can do for a family is take their picture, well besides give them money I suppose. I let one of them take my picture as I milked the cow and it was the most exciting thing she’s probably ever done. After that, we took probably 50 more pictures of everything from the goat to the neighbor boys.
The sun sets around 7 pm here so I could not stay long. As I left, they gave me a hen. What in the world am I going to do with it, I don’t know! But I took it graciously.
We continued on to Obotsi Justine’s home. I spoke with her mother and her uncle told me all about the banana plantation and English tomatoes they planted. I learned about yakayam and they gave me a piece. It is a potato-like root that is sweet. The stay there was much less exciting for me and far more brief, but I received another chicken!
After that we went to Kaloba Kevin and Christine’s place. By then, it was getting dark so I literally sat down for two minutes then we left. But of course, I received two more chickens – one from each student.
We ran down the mountain, literally ran. The mountain is called Bumayako and the village I went to is called Nitatsayas. I prayed every step of the way that I would not break an ankle or any bone for that matter. As the path flattened, one of the girls turned to me and said, “You do not walk like other Mzungus.” She went on to explain that I like to walk fast, stay near the front, and keep up with the locals. I took that as a compliment!
I returned home with 3 hens and my very own cock. Hahaha! I love it. I milked a cow and got my own chickens today! Seriously, this life is incredible!
At lunch, Koloba Steven’s wife, Beth, delivered potatoes and chapatti for us Mzungus. It was a welcome treat after weeks, and many weeks to come, of posho, beans, and cabbage for lunch.
I read to P4 and P7 today as well. The students must think I’m crazy because I use a lot of silly animation while reading. They seem to like it and are very engaged in the stories. We discussed new vocabulary words, morals or lessons learned, and what a prologue is. I am excited to continue reading aloud to the students. I believe they will benefit greatly from hearing English and learning to love books.
In the afternoon, I joined the choir in preparing for their performance this weekend at the Bupoto Clinic opening. Teacher Nelson had them out in the field practicing a traditional dance to the beating drums. I joined in! The students LOVE it when we participate. Part of the dance was milking a cow. As you can imagine, I have no idea how to milk a cow!
After school we started our clubs. I am in charge of the writing club. This is exciting and hopefully we’ll be able to write a school newsletter. The concept of clubs is new to the students so pretty much the entire school wants to join the club. We’ll see how it turns out…
After clubs, at about 5:00 pm, Nandala Caroline invited me to her home. She said, “Teacher Charlee, you are visiting today, yes?” I thought, why not and asked, “How far do you live?” She replied, “I live near far.”
Now, let me tell you for a second about near and far. Distance seems irrelevant to these people. They walk miles and miles, or should I say kilometers and kilometers, to get places. And their walk is not just on the sidewalk. Only a few roads, which are dusty or muddy depending on the season, exist. Alternatively, paths that are like hiking trails sprawl up the mountains and around the valleys like a web. The people know the way around these paths without any signs to mark them. To me, near means around the corner, which I realize is another relative term. But here, near means around the MOUNTAIN! Far is up and around the mountain and over the hills into a valley past the last two mountains and valleys.
So I went to Caroline’s house. We climbed and climbed and climbed and when we arrived at an opening in the path, she said, “We are near,” and pointed to a home across the valley another half mile away. We arrived at 6:15. I LOVE hiking around through the trails here. The reason I love going on the trails is because I get to see the life here. The trails cross right onto people’s porches and everyone is out. I see mostly women who are working preparing meals and men who are carrying things on their heads. Children are EVERYWHERE! Seriously, everywhere. I can’t even tell you how wonderful and beautiful it is to see these children all over the place.
I quickly learned that Mzungus are “most welcome.” Anywhere I go people are super excited to see me. They thank me so much for coming to their village and everyone invites me to their home. When I greet them in Lagisu, the local language, they brighten up. This behavior is especially true amongst the adults and more particularly by elderly women. Everyone is grateful for my work and for coming to Uganda. I feel quite humbled by it. I wish the entire world could be so kind and welcoming to strangers and neighbors alike.
So we finally made it to Caroline’s place after I thought I was going to die hiking up the mountain. Thank goodness I had four guides from school to show me the way. I’m proud to say I kept up with them. When we arrived, all the neighbors came to see me and Caroline’s mother welcomed me. “You are most welcome,” is their formal greeting.
I sat in their living room for a few minutes and chatted with Caroline’s mother who spoke beautiful English. Then, after speaking in Lugisu with her children she turned to me and said, “Caroline told me you would like to milk a cow.”
Huh??!?!? Are you serious??? I didn’t tell her that, but maybe she got that while we were dancing.
So the next thing I know, I have udders in my hands! Hahahahahahahahaha! I milked a cow!!
The entire family was there to enjoy the moment. One of the babies was only a week old! He was SO precious, but it was kind of weird when his mother pulled out her breast in the middle of a conversation with me and began to feed him. Yeah, that’s normal!!!
The people are obsessed with cameras. The nicest thing I can do for a family is take their picture, well besides give them money I suppose. I let one of them take my picture as I milked the cow and it was the most exciting thing she’s probably ever done. After that, we took probably 50 more pictures of everything from the goat to the neighbor boys.
The sun sets around 7 pm here so I could not stay long. As I left, they gave me a hen. What in the world am I going to do with it, I don’t know! But I took it graciously.
We continued on to Obotsi Justine’s home. I spoke with her mother and her uncle told me all about the banana plantation and English tomatoes they planted. I learned about yakayam and they gave me a piece. It is a potato-like root that is sweet. The stay there was much less exciting for me and far more brief, but I received another chicken!
After that we went to Kaloba Kevin and Christine’s place. By then, it was getting dark so I literally sat down for two minutes then we left. But of course, I received two more chickens – one from each student.
We ran down the mountain, literally ran. The mountain is called Bumayako and the village I went to is called Nitatsayas. I prayed every step of the way that I would not break an ankle or any bone for that matter. As the path flattened, one of the girls turned to me and said, “You do not walk like other Mzungus.” She went on to explain that I like to walk fast, stay near the front, and keep up with the locals. I took that as a compliment!
I returned home with 3 hens and my very own cock. Hahaha! I love it. I milked a cow and got my own chickens today! Seriously, this life is incredible!
Monday, February 11, 2008
Isn't She Beautiful?
I tried to post more photos but this was the only one I could get to work. The internet is a bit shoddy here. This girl is about 10 years old. She is so beautiful that I had to get a picture. I will try and post more later.
Saturday, February 09, 2008
Animal Thoughts…
2/3/08
Today was the hottest day yet… thank goodness it was Sunday and I largely spent it in the guest house. I’m mastering the art of doing nothing. It’s not that I don’t have stuff to do, it’s more that today, the Sabbath, is a day when I set everything aside and do nothing. I woke up before sunrise feeling rested. The first cock crowed around 5:50 am. Perhaps such sounds seem natural or organic to wake up to, but really, it’s obnoxious. Once they start, hundreds more will be heard throughout the morning from all over the valley. Yesterday morning I found my brain repeating ‘shut the cock up’ over and over again like a mantra. I wanted to ring the neck of the next one I saw!
Animals are simply part of the earth here – part of life. Some of my fellow volunteers have a real proclivity toward them and think they’re really cute. Not me. In fact, I am averse to them. A baby goat came in the living room. My friends all thought the goat was so wonderful, but I begged to differ. He’s cuter outside.
Being here makes me less of an animal rights supporter than I was before. Not that I was concerned terribly much about the issue before, but now I know I’m not. I mean, animals are great and cute, but the people here treat them and use them for their livelihood. Any regulations on how to coral a cow or properly care for a chicken would be taking away a person’s livelihood. I know livestock and Old Mcdonald’s assortment are utilized and processed differently in the US – Farm animals are for industry and feeding millions rather than a family. But I don’t believe the quality of life for an animal is very important. By all means I don’t condone animal abuse or cruelty, but I guess I feel there are more important issues to be concerned about, perhaps more human related like poverty. Speaking of which, I realized yesterday that wrapping my brain around the living conditions and poverty of this area is going to take a long time – I’m glad I have time to think.
Today was the hottest day yet… thank goodness it was Sunday and I largely spent it in the guest house. I’m mastering the art of doing nothing. It’s not that I don’t have stuff to do, it’s more that today, the Sabbath, is a day when I set everything aside and do nothing. I woke up before sunrise feeling rested. The first cock crowed around 5:50 am. Perhaps such sounds seem natural or organic to wake up to, but really, it’s obnoxious. Once they start, hundreds more will be heard throughout the morning from all over the valley. Yesterday morning I found my brain repeating ‘shut the cock up’ over and over again like a mantra. I wanted to ring the neck of the next one I saw!
Animals are simply part of the earth here – part of life. Some of my fellow volunteers have a real proclivity toward them and think they’re really cute. Not me. In fact, I am averse to them. A baby goat came in the living room. My friends all thought the goat was so wonderful, but I begged to differ. He’s cuter outside.
Being here makes me less of an animal rights supporter than I was before. Not that I was concerned terribly much about the issue before, but now I know I’m not. I mean, animals are great and cute, but the people here treat them and use them for their livelihood. Any regulations on how to coral a cow or properly care for a chicken would be taking away a person’s livelihood. I know livestock and Old Mcdonald’s assortment are utilized and processed differently in the US – Farm animals are for industry and feeding millions rather than a family. But I don’t believe the quality of life for an animal is very important. By all means I don’t condone animal abuse or cruelty, but I guess I feel there are more important issues to be concerned about, perhaps more human related like poverty. Speaking of which, I realized yesterday that wrapping my brain around the living conditions and poverty of this area is going to take a long time – I’m glad I have time to think.
I LOVE Service!
2/8/08
We did the coolest service project yesterday! A few of the FIMRC volunteers brought suitcases of clothes to give away. We took them to homes of orphans. Here, a child is considered an orphan if one or both parents have dies. The terrain is extremely mountainous and the hills are steep. The first house we went to was at the very top of a mountain in a village called Mwaraha (I’m sure I didn’t spell that right, but it’s pronounced ma-ra-ha with a rolled r. It sounds Spanish). The clay hut-like home had 2 wooden chairs in it, a cow in the back, and a gravestone in the yard. The hike up was intense. I find that I LOVE hiking. I love the feeling when my heart is beating so fast that it could pop out of my chest. I love traversing the terrain and getting to the top. I can go and go, and for a mazungu (white person) I can go fast, which means I keep up. Anyway, one lady started dancing and praising when we came to her home. You should see the children here. They’re beautiful. They are like Peter Pan’s lost boys (this place would be awesome for playing Peter Pan if you were 10 again). At one home, we waited in the front for the mother to arrive. The neighbors started gathering around us. After our greetings, they stared at us and we stared at them – a typical exchange for strangers who are equally fascinated with each other, but have no way to communicate. Suddenly, a little boy came bouncing around the corner naked as a J-bird. Haha! He shook our hands and the neighbors laughed. It was hilarious, but at the same time, completely ok. He just decided not to wear clothes that day. Not a big deal!
I live in the bush. It’s amazing really. I have to sieve my water even when I wash my face (it comes from a huge tank that collects rain water – should be fairly clean, but I’ve found worms in it). I do my business in an outhouse. People cook in clay pits in the ground of their “kitchen,” which is usually a 10x10 room detached from the house. I squat to shower with a pitcher and basin. I kill roaches and spiders. A goat wandered into my living room. I could go on and on. Today, I removed animal poo from the path to the latrine without even wincing.
Ironically, all the people here have cell phones. Minutes are added to the phone by purchasing a card with a scratch on it like a lottery card. Under the scratch is a number that gives credit when entered into the phone. Without a banking infrastructure in this area, billing for monthly usage would be impossible. There aren’t many banks because most of the people do subsistence farming and would never really need one. In my opinion, telecom and communications services in Africa are the most important and influential changes being made in Africa. There is no way people could have a land line. Bringing faster communication and more information via the internet will revolutionize this continent.
Ugandans are incredibly happy. They have the attitude that tomorrow will take care of itself. I think the US could use a dose or two of that.
I wish I could tell you about every second of my days here. I am learning so much.
School starts tomorrow so I better get to bed.
We did the coolest service project yesterday! A few of the FIMRC volunteers brought suitcases of clothes to give away. We took them to homes of orphans. Here, a child is considered an orphan if one or both parents have dies. The terrain is extremely mountainous and the hills are steep. The first house we went to was at the very top of a mountain in a village called Mwaraha (I’m sure I didn’t spell that right, but it’s pronounced ma-ra-ha with a rolled r. It sounds Spanish). The clay hut-like home had 2 wooden chairs in it, a cow in the back, and a gravestone in the yard. The hike up was intense. I find that I LOVE hiking. I love the feeling when my heart is beating so fast that it could pop out of my chest. I love traversing the terrain and getting to the top. I can go and go, and for a mazungu (white person) I can go fast, which means I keep up. Anyway, one lady started dancing and praising when we came to her home. You should see the children here. They’re beautiful. They are like Peter Pan’s lost boys (this place would be awesome for playing Peter Pan if you were 10 again). At one home, we waited in the front for the mother to arrive. The neighbors started gathering around us. After our greetings, they stared at us and we stared at them – a typical exchange for strangers who are equally fascinated with each other, but have no way to communicate. Suddenly, a little boy came bouncing around the corner naked as a J-bird. Haha! He shook our hands and the neighbors laughed. It was hilarious, but at the same time, completely ok. He just decided not to wear clothes that day. Not a big deal!
I live in the bush. It’s amazing really. I have to sieve my water even when I wash my face (it comes from a huge tank that collects rain water – should be fairly clean, but I’ve found worms in it). I do my business in an outhouse. People cook in clay pits in the ground of their “kitchen,” which is usually a 10x10 room detached from the house. I squat to shower with a pitcher and basin. I kill roaches and spiders. A goat wandered into my living room. I could go on and on. Today, I removed animal poo from the path to the latrine without even wincing.
Ironically, all the people here have cell phones. Minutes are added to the phone by purchasing a card with a scratch on it like a lottery card. Under the scratch is a number that gives credit when entered into the phone. Without a banking infrastructure in this area, billing for monthly usage would be impossible. There aren’t many banks because most of the people do subsistence farming and would never really need one. In my opinion, telecom and communications services in Africa are the most important and influential changes being made in Africa. There is no way people could have a land line. Bringing faster communication and more information via the internet will revolutionize this continent.
Ugandans are incredibly happy. They have the attitude that tomorrow will take care of itself. I think the US could use a dose or two of that.
I wish I could tell you about every second of my days here. I am learning so much.
School starts tomorrow so I better get to bed.
I Got Sick. YUCK! WTMI (Way too much information).
Warning, this may disgust you, so proceed with caution! 1/31/08
David, a former Peace Corp volunteer and FIMRC onsite manager here in Bumwalukani, said, “In places like this, talking about bowel movements is not unusual. It’s perfectly normal amongst Peace Corp members to say, ‘Hi, I’m David. I have not [crapped] in six days.”
And so… I’m on day six in Uganda. So far so good – until now. I experienced my first bout of explosive diarrhea this morning. Thinking it was all clear (I couldn’t possibly have anything more in me) I set out for a day at the market and tour of the Budodo Hospital.
Bad idea. We loaded onto a nearly full matato (taxi). As we headed to the market, about eight more people got on board. I counted 18 people – imagine that many folks in a volkswagon van. We reached the market and many people unloaded, but we were headed for the hospital in the next town. The market was crowded and the driver took time to unload and load (a goat – yes, a goat, was loaded under the seat I sat on).
Suddenly, my stomach churned. After a minute or two more of loading and unloading, I thought to myself, if this bus doesn’t start moving, something else is going to move and it’s not going to be pleasant. Not convinced I could make it to Budodo, I turned to David and asked how difficult it would be to find latrine. We got off and set out to find it. Directed to go toward the school, the latrine was locked when we reached. To my relief, a young girl fetched the key. Phew, I barely made it! David kindly fetched TP for me, which served its purpose much better than the loose notebook paper that was in the latrine.
The last story I’ll share is hilarious. Then I’ll stop disgusting you with a discussion on my bowel problems. After the school house rock, I made it through the market, and through a tour of Bududo Hospital – very scary third world medical conditions, but they had running toilets. We stopped for lunch at a restaurant in Bududa. Hesitant to eat, I ordered a Coke. About 1/3 into my drink and oh no, not again!!! I looked at David, who later commented on the horror/urgency he saw in my face, and asked if I would be able to find a latrine here. Forget waiting for his reply. I stood up, demanded Nikki to give me the TP, but didn’t even wait for that. I rushed into the kitchen and declared, “Latrine! Toilet!” All I got were stares. I went on, “Bathroom! Restroom! Toilet!” Oh, please have a toilet. Then a girl got up. I’m quite certain she got the message because she started out fast. Out of fear that I would have an accident, I held my skirt out in front and in back. We wound our way through the kitchen, around the back lot, through and alley, and then she said, “Wait here.” WAIT?!?!? Are you kidding me?? But she was back in seconds with a key to unlock the latrine. Relief! And just in time. And sweet Nikki appeared just in time to hold the door and give me the TP.
I was mortified when I returned to my friends, but I felt better. Nikki told me stories about embarrassing moments she has had to help me feel better. We took boda bodas home – I sat behind David on the motorcycle. He made sure to remind me that it was in his best interest that I tell him if we need to stop on the side of the road! I made it home safe and sound. Needless to say, I stayed low for the rest of the day.
Thank heavens for Levaquin. I felt relieved of my illness in about 48 hours.
Hey now, I am in Africa! OK, I realize that is much much more than I ever should have shared with you and all the strangers out there on the internet.
David, a former Peace Corp volunteer and FIMRC onsite manager here in Bumwalukani, said, “In places like this, talking about bowel movements is not unusual. It’s perfectly normal amongst Peace Corp members to say, ‘Hi, I’m David. I have not [crapped] in six days.”
And so… I’m on day six in Uganda. So far so good – until now. I experienced my first bout of explosive diarrhea this morning. Thinking it was all clear (I couldn’t possibly have anything more in me) I set out for a day at the market and tour of the Budodo Hospital.
Bad idea. We loaded onto a nearly full matato (taxi). As we headed to the market, about eight more people got on board. I counted 18 people – imagine that many folks in a volkswagon van. We reached the market and many people unloaded, but we were headed for the hospital in the next town. The market was crowded and the driver took time to unload and load (a goat – yes, a goat, was loaded under the seat I sat on).
Suddenly, my stomach churned. After a minute or two more of loading and unloading, I thought to myself, if this bus doesn’t start moving, something else is going to move and it’s not going to be pleasant. Not convinced I could make it to Budodo, I turned to David and asked how difficult it would be to find latrine. We got off and set out to find it. Directed to go toward the school, the latrine was locked when we reached. To my relief, a young girl fetched the key. Phew, I barely made it! David kindly fetched TP for me, which served its purpose much better than the loose notebook paper that was in the latrine.
The last story I’ll share is hilarious. Then I’ll stop disgusting you with a discussion on my bowel problems. After the school house rock, I made it through the market, and through a tour of Bududo Hospital – very scary third world medical conditions, but they had running toilets. We stopped for lunch at a restaurant in Bududa. Hesitant to eat, I ordered a Coke. About 1/3 into my drink and oh no, not again!!! I looked at David, who later commented on the horror/urgency he saw in my face, and asked if I would be able to find a latrine here. Forget waiting for his reply. I stood up, demanded Nikki to give me the TP, but didn’t even wait for that. I rushed into the kitchen and declared, “Latrine! Toilet!” All I got were stares. I went on, “Bathroom! Restroom! Toilet!” Oh, please have a toilet. Then a girl got up. I’m quite certain she got the message because she started out fast. Out of fear that I would have an accident, I held my skirt out in front and in back. We wound our way through the kitchen, around the back lot, through and alley, and then she said, “Wait here.” WAIT?!?!? Are you kidding me?? But she was back in seconds with a key to unlock the latrine. Relief! And just in time. And sweet Nikki appeared just in time to hold the door and give me the TP.
I was mortified when I returned to my friends, but I felt better. Nikki told me stories about embarrassing moments she has had to help me feel better. We took boda bodas home – I sat behind David on the motorcycle. He made sure to remind me that it was in his best interest that I tell him if we need to stop on the side of the road! I made it home safe and sound. Needless to say, I stayed low for the rest of the day.
Thank heavens for Levaquin. I felt relieved of my illness in about 48 hours.
Hey now, I am in Africa! OK, I realize that is much much more than I ever should have shared with you and all the strangers out there on the internet.
Thursday, February 07, 2008
I LOVE UGANDA! - I'm still on the honeymoon!
Arriving in Kampala…1/25/08
As I stepped off the airplane into the night Kampala sky, I sucked in a deep breath – Uganda air! I am here! A broad smiling man with a sign that read Arlington Academy of Hope greeted Mike and me at the door as we collected our baggage. When we loaded the car, a priceless moment of cultural shock occurred. Mike, assigned to sit in the front seat, went to the right side of the vehicle. Sam laughed a good laugh and said, “No, other side.” Sam proved to be a trusted driver, but ironically, anyone behind the wheel needs to maintain a high level of crazy driving to get somewhere safely.
So many things have happened since I arrived. I will tell you about a few of them and a few of the things I’ve observed while getting settled and getting started.
Driving into downtown Kampala was an eye-opener. That city is crazy! Shops and storefronts line all the highways and roads. Every building is painted with advertisements and messages. And the people, the people stand in front of these shops and sell everything. The concept of using the whole buffalo is taken to a whole new level here. A car exhaust system was turned into plumbing pieces and tools. Piles and piles of stuff were stacked up everywhere that waited to be turned into something. Traffic is completely chaotic and somehow organized. We shared the road with buses, boda bodas (motorcycles), matatus (taxis), pedestrians, huge trucks, and cows sporting enormous horns.
(Holy cow – As I’m typing, I heard a cow moo, and I’m pretty sure that cow is right outside my door.)
Sam and Nora have a beautiful family and home. Their three children are Nezi, Norsam, and Naten. Sam and Nora are very busy people – they do marriage counseling, rotary, work, church. Nora has her own executive coaching business and Sam is an accountant.
I am amazed at the way of life here. By my standards (and probably any standards), poverty reigns. But amongst the bustle of thousands of people selling and transporting things (even on their heads), store fronts crowded with goods, advertisements and signs everywhere, and dusty red dirt roads filled with cars and cars that have no emissions regulations, amongst all of that, there is an abundance of life paradoxical to the poverty. People are busy and people are happy.
Welcome to Bumwalukani!! 1/26/08
Imagine for a second the green greenest place you’ve ever seen in your life. Now take that to a greener level and you arrive right here in Bumwalukani, Uganda. The scenery is magical and the people are beautiful. Our drive to the village progressed to more and more rural surroundings. We drove through villages marked by shops and lounging people. Then we passed fields of sugar cane. After the fields, we began to see huts. We passed more sugar cane fields and rice patties. Then we crossed the Nile River, and turned off road that wrapped around the mountains. Finally, we went up and up the road that can barely be classified as a road to the guest house – home sweet home!
Highlights of my new home:
No mirror! I will not see my own face for three months! I didn’t expect this, but I love it! Do you know those people who are always checking themselves out when a mirror is near? That’s me. But I am putting this narcissistic habit aside during my stay here – this time, it’s all about the people I’m serving.
No running anything! No shower. No sink. No toilet. Girls camp has nothing against this life! I remember the first time I used an out house. It was at Wall Lake in South Dakota. The stench offended my senses and the darkness scared me. Well, I got over that here! Thank heavens for yoga – I can squat for an unusually long amount of time and am quite certain I can go three months without touching the seat. (haha! I can’t believe I’m talking about this so openly, but if you were locals, you would understand.)
The village bar is across the street from our home. Cynthia, our experienced traveler, said it’s only open a couple nights a week and closes around 9 pm. Maybe something had changed in the culture over the past year of her absence because the partying (music blaring, chanting in microphones, and chatter of voices) continued ALL night long. Not kidding – until dawn. And alarmingly, we heard four gunshots. At school today, we inquired about the party. Apparently, a village man died the night before we arrived. He was drunk and fell off a bridge. As part of the funeral ceremony, his family and friends partied continuously for two nights. Thank goodness we have no further fatalities, the bar is closed tonight, and Uganda peace fills my ears.
Let me tell you about the sounds here. Try to take away the hum of your computer and the buzzing of a radio or TV. Then lift the ventilation noise, and remove the traffic sounds. Take that another step to remove whatever other noise pollution you hear and you’re in Uganda. The quiet is wonderful! It’s not silent. I hear the constant chirp of bugs, the occasional crow of a rooster, the moo of cows and other animals, and the distant sound of voices. “How are yoooou???,” comes at me in excited child voices from every direction as I walk the path to, well, anywhere. They chant it and get very excited to have my attention. I say Melembe, which is hello to any passerby.
A comet of kids follows me where ever I go. They run around barefoot and in tattered clothing. The skin on their feet is calloused and thick. Their little legs are so so dirty and their clothes are unexplainably dirty and worn out and worn everyday. I chuckle when I see little cheeks exposed because of holes in their bottoms.
The Food: 1/26/08
Our first meal was at Koloba Steven’s house. He works as a cook at the school. After climbing what seemed like a mountain, we turned off the road to go up a trail that led us through a banana-tree-crowded mountainside neighborhood. The home is high on the hill – far from water and fire wood. The family greeted us with exuberant smiles. What happened next was the most incredible welcome I’ve ever experienced! The mother, Elizabeth, invited us and the children to pray. We bowed our heads respectfully and she said a few words in Lugisu. Then she said, “Let’s sing.” The entire family, mam, dad, and eight children aged three to 14 clapped their hands and sang the most beautiful song. The song had Hallelujah in it and a part where they sang to each of us individually. Then Elizabeth prayed again – a very long prayer. They brought a basin and clean water for us to wash our hands (good thing because I shook and gave high five to many dirty hands).
Then came the spread. They had rice, beans, matooke (mashed bananas), chapatti (flat fried bread), hard boiled eggs, and meat. Yes, I ate some of everything and I can’t tell you enough how delicious the food is here! It’s so natural and very well prepared. They cook with a lot of grease, but with no preservatives and certainly no hydrogenated fats.
After dinner, they brought us African tea (I did not partake) and ground nuts. G-nuts taste like peanuts, but they are smaller and yummier. When the meal was complete, they showed us their house, which was one room with divider walls. They also had a kitchen and store room.
Every meal since has been nearly as extensive and delicious. The time for preparation must be extensive. I would like to help make a meal, but I think I should hold off on that until close to when I go home. I might not want to know exactly what goes into the food that is going into me.
The Guest House:
Our home is right on the main road. It is a large building that consists of four bedrooms and a large main room in the center. Each room has a closet area and beds – that’s about it. Oh, I must not forget the veranda where the evenings can be enjoyed.
Security: 1/27/08
Many strange things happen in our living room. Today, a baby goat wandered in. Yesterday evening, a knock at our door brought in three official looking people. One was teacher Anne. Another was some local official who seemed to be one of their friends. The next was Matanga Sam. And Matanga Sam had a gun (probably an AK47, but I don’t know). They sat down like normal – yeah, that’s normal. But, he was introduced as our security guard who is on the property all night. OK, that’s alright. Honestly, I don’t feel like there is a need for an armed guard, but it is good for those at home to know I’m expressly protected. I have a sense that I need to be cautious, but the people are lovely and seemingly harmless. AAH has never had a problem during their 10 years here.
Fetching Water: 1/28/08
Near the school there is a protected water source. What that means is the water comes from a spring that is deep in the earth. A cement wall with a draining spout is built around it, and a fence encompasses a 10 foot radius from the source. Keeping animals and people away from the land above the source is important in preserving the cleanliness of the water. The quality of this source is high and can be determined by the fact that even when it rains, it runs clear. Other sources are less deep and water seeps in when it rains contaminating it. Contaminated water contains amoebas, cholera, worms and other water borne vectors that cause people diarrhea and worse problems. The people who get their water from this source lazily drink it straight from the tap. They rarely boil it because it is so clean. It doesn’t matter how good of reputation a source has, I want my water boiled!
I fetched the water today. I took, well actually David took, a 20 liter jerrycan (I’m sure I spelled that and many other things on my entire blog wrong!) down the hill to the source. When we got there, about a dozen kids were in line to fetch water. One little boy, who I saw numerous times throughout the day, didn’t have pants on and it didn’t seem to bother anybody (the kids I see who have no bottoms on are always 1-3 years old – I’ve yet to see anyone older baring all). We filled our can and started back up the hill. I took a try at carrying it and was largely unsuccessful. The water was sloshing everywhere, and I was tipping over! I will need to practice with less water before I take on that huge of a load again. 20 liters is nearly 42 lbs. Now, to emphasize my wimpiness, I hiked up the hill to school again this afternoon and saw three women carrying 20 liter jerrycans on their heads. They were full to the top and not a drop sloshed out. I’m amazed.
The Young Women’s Group: 1/28/08
Nine beautiful young women gather each week at the clinic to have a discussion group. Today’s topic was sex and sexuality. How appropriate for a former abstinence education professional. The group was lead by the PeaceCorp volunteer here, Karine, and Wilson, the village health worker. The girls were embarrassed by the topic, which primarily discussed feelings and behaviors in a platonic relationship verses feelings and behaviors in a boyfriend relationship. No dirty details discussed this time around. Next time, they will talk about family planning.
All I wanted was to take the girls in my arms and tell them how beautiful they are, how much they’re worth, and what they can become. I wanted to tell them how to say no and all the reasons why they should wait. The girls asked how to say no, but Karine deflected and said we’ll discuss refusal skills in a few weeks. Dhhhhaaaaa!! A few weeks?!?! They want to know NOW – can we please talk about it??
Wilson introduced me at the end. I did tell them they are beautiful, and I want to be their friend. They burst up in laughter when he translated my message. I was worried they were laughing at me, but when I asked Wilson, he said, “No, they hear it as praise. They are bashful.”
The final item of business was the tea. Pretty much the only reason the girls come is because of the African tea that is served. But today, nobody brought water so no tea was made. They organized what is referred to as a rotational fund. Each week, the girls have the option to contribute a few shillings to the pot. When they get enough, they buy a chicken or goat for one of the girls until all of them get one. So they’re really learning how to pool their resources. Next week, Lorna would bring the water because she lives the closest. But each of the girls must bring her a piece of firewood for her efforts. That sounds fair enough. Economy of things is different here. People don’t really own much and there aren’t banks. Tomorrow will take care of itself is the primary attitude. They chop firewood when they need it. They buy food at the market each day. They work odds and ends jobs rather than secure real work. It seems rather inefficient, yet, it’s a simple system and it works. Food doesn’t rot. There are plenty of kids to get wood. And enough work to keep everyone busy, even though a stroll through town would convey a lazy façade.
Going to the workshop: 1/28/08
In effort to improve the guesthouse, we sought out for shelves today. The workshop is down the street and we heard that shelves can be made for 40,000 shillings (about $30). Teacher Godfrey joined us – Muzungas will get ripped off, especially muzungas from AAH. This was quite the process. To get the correct measurements, the carpenter came to the guesthouse. It was decided that we needed four bookshelves that were 5’x5’x12”. Negotiating the price was challenging, but after a few minutes Ruth took out a piece of paper and wrote down our order. She signed it and so did the carpenter. Within the week, we should have four shelves for 160 shillings. Our shelves cost more because they will be varnished.
On our walk back to the school, we saw a little upheaval. A father had a boy in a grip and was beating him with a stick. They boy was wailing dramatically. It was quite obvious that he was in some sort of a fight with the other boys there. Soon the mamma came out and started yelling at the dad. I’ve never seen abusive behavior before except on TV. This kind of discipline doesn’t seem to be a frequent occurrence here, but seeing it leaves an impression.
Preparing the school 1/30/08:
I never quite know what my day is going to bring me here. But a few things are predictable. School starts next week creating a “to do” list that is full of prepping and cleaning classrooms. The P7 students from 2007 wrote scholarship essays and applications. We assisted them and checked their writing for grammar mistakes. Then we took on the strenuous project of moving the desks from the library, cleaning them in the yard, then placing them in the classrooms. Good thing we had students around. We had to tear them away from the movie that was playing in one of the classrooms – yay for power (they don’t often call it electricity)! By the finish of morning, we had everything in place.
Word from the wise 1/29/08:
Papa is Uncle John’s father. In other words, he is John Wanda’s father and very respected in the village and surrounding area. I passed him on the road to school and commented on how busy he is with his many roles and responsibilities. He said, “If I keep moving, I will not feel my aches.” Now that is wisdom.
Ox Fam Community Health Education and Skits 1/30/08:
I was invited yesterday to attend a health video at the Bumwalukani Primary School at 11:00 today. Anxious to see what kind of health video would be playing (praying for power, and wondering where in the world the primary school secure funds for a TV?), I left my duties at school and journeyed down to the school at the bottom of the hill. I arrived at 11:30 and nobody was there. Wilson, the organizer, was missing and only a few children stared at me as I approached the building. ‘How are you?’ came at me from every direction as usual. My presence in the middle of the village school yard was quite strange, I’m sure. So I hiked back up to Arlington.
At about 1:00, Wilson came to the school urgently looking for me. The program had started, and he wished me to be present. So I went. As we turned the corner into the school yard, I couldn’t believe my eyes. The ENTIRE village had gathered and were waiting for the program to begin. I was given a seat on a chair in the front of the crowd and introduced to a few of the health workers. Then everything began.
The video had nothing to do with TV. Ox Fam, a health outreach organization, came to the village with performers who sang songs and performed skits to teach about health topics. Today, we learned about keeping a clean house, safe water, and malaria. The native song and dance filled the crowd with energy and humor.
I started walking home after the performance. The children who followed me had a flat disk or slice of a tree trunk that they liked to roll along the ground to each other. I picked it up and threw it like a Frisbee. Wow did that excited the children. For 30 minutes I threw the Frisbee back and forth to about a dozen and a half children. I would say, “are you ready” and they would say, “I am ready.” I hope I can teach them how to play Ultimate sometime.
Our first chicken 1/30/08:
The people here take kindness, graciousness, and generosity to a whole new level. We Americans have a lot to learn from them about neighborly kindness, hospitality, and respect. We were invited for tea at Jimmy’s home. He is one of the S2 students who leaves for secondary school next week. They served us cold sodas to begin with – oh how lovely was the Fanta! Then we feasted on g-nuts and sweet bananas. Truly, their generosity at this point reached their capacity to give. But as we left their humble abode, we heard a chicken squawking behind the house. Then, Jimmy’s father came around the corner and said to his son, “Jimmy, honor your guests.” Jimmy placed the bird in Cynthia’s hands. It was a gift to all of us for coming to their home.
Although we can do nothing with a chicken, taking it is all we can do. Refusing is offensive. That hen probably provided the family with eggs for food and income, and could have been their only one. I feel humbled by their generosity. I feel humbled by this entire country. People have so little, yet they have something to give. Even though their concept of time is not the same as ours (believe me, 1:00 pm is nothing near 11:00 am), time is theirs to give. They stop to say hello. They stay for time. They never hurry. This attitude conveys a sense of caring kindness and concerned friendship.
I pray every day that I might love the people here. I absorb as much of what is happening around me as I can.
Life of the children:
Children are everywhere I look. They hang out in the trees, the fields, the stream, the mountains. They don’t have toys and don’t seem to be interested in organized games. They just hang out. Their tattered clothing is telling of their tough play. Kids of all ages congregate together. They chase cows. They sit on the hillside. They play with the animals. They work. They are so different from American children.
They don’t have toys. From a young age, they are given responsibilities. Yet, they seem so happy. They seem to have a sense of what they are to become – adults. They know they will grow big and when they do, they will need to have skills, jobs, families, and friends. But at the same time, they live carefree lives of children – singing and dancing and laughing and playing.
As I stepped off the airplane into the night Kampala sky, I sucked in a deep breath – Uganda air! I am here! A broad smiling man with a sign that read Arlington Academy of Hope greeted Mike and me at the door as we collected our baggage. When we loaded the car, a priceless moment of cultural shock occurred. Mike, assigned to sit in the front seat, went to the right side of the vehicle. Sam laughed a good laugh and said, “No, other side.” Sam proved to be a trusted driver, but ironically, anyone behind the wheel needs to maintain a high level of crazy driving to get somewhere safely.
So many things have happened since I arrived. I will tell you about a few of them and a few of the things I’ve observed while getting settled and getting started.
Driving into downtown Kampala was an eye-opener. That city is crazy! Shops and storefronts line all the highways and roads. Every building is painted with advertisements and messages. And the people, the people stand in front of these shops and sell everything. The concept of using the whole buffalo is taken to a whole new level here. A car exhaust system was turned into plumbing pieces and tools. Piles and piles of stuff were stacked up everywhere that waited to be turned into something. Traffic is completely chaotic and somehow organized. We shared the road with buses, boda bodas (motorcycles), matatus (taxis), pedestrians, huge trucks, and cows sporting enormous horns.
(Holy cow – As I’m typing, I heard a cow moo, and I’m pretty sure that cow is right outside my door.)
Sam and Nora have a beautiful family and home. Their three children are Nezi, Norsam, and Naten. Sam and Nora are very busy people – they do marriage counseling, rotary, work, church. Nora has her own executive coaching business and Sam is an accountant.
I am amazed at the way of life here. By my standards (and probably any standards), poverty reigns. But amongst the bustle of thousands of people selling and transporting things (even on their heads), store fronts crowded with goods, advertisements and signs everywhere, and dusty red dirt roads filled with cars and cars that have no emissions regulations, amongst all of that, there is an abundance of life paradoxical to the poverty. People are busy and people are happy.
Welcome to Bumwalukani!! 1/26/08
Imagine for a second the green greenest place you’ve ever seen in your life. Now take that to a greener level and you arrive right here in Bumwalukani, Uganda. The scenery is magical and the people are beautiful. Our drive to the village progressed to more and more rural surroundings. We drove through villages marked by shops and lounging people. Then we passed fields of sugar cane. After the fields, we began to see huts. We passed more sugar cane fields and rice patties. Then we crossed the Nile River, and turned off road that wrapped around the mountains. Finally, we went up and up the road that can barely be classified as a road to the guest house – home sweet home!
Highlights of my new home:
No mirror! I will not see my own face for three months! I didn’t expect this, but I love it! Do you know those people who are always checking themselves out when a mirror is near? That’s me. But I am putting this narcissistic habit aside during my stay here – this time, it’s all about the people I’m serving.
No running anything! No shower. No sink. No toilet. Girls camp has nothing against this life! I remember the first time I used an out house. It was at Wall Lake in South Dakota. The stench offended my senses and the darkness scared me. Well, I got over that here! Thank heavens for yoga – I can squat for an unusually long amount of time and am quite certain I can go three months without touching the seat. (haha! I can’t believe I’m talking about this so openly, but if you were locals, you would understand.)
The village bar is across the street from our home. Cynthia, our experienced traveler, said it’s only open a couple nights a week and closes around 9 pm. Maybe something had changed in the culture over the past year of her absence because the partying (music blaring, chanting in microphones, and chatter of voices) continued ALL night long. Not kidding – until dawn. And alarmingly, we heard four gunshots. At school today, we inquired about the party. Apparently, a village man died the night before we arrived. He was drunk and fell off a bridge. As part of the funeral ceremony, his family and friends partied continuously for two nights. Thank goodness we have no further fatalities, the bar is closed tonight, and Uganda peace fills my ears.
Let me tell you about the sounds here. Try to take away the hum of your computer and the buzzing of a radio or TV. Then lift the ventilation noise, and remove the traffic sounds. Take that another step to remove whatever other noise pollution you hear and you’re in Uganda. The quiet is wonderful! It’s not silent. I hear the constant chirp of bugs, the occasional crow of a rooster, the moo of cows and other animals, and the distant sound of voices. “How are yoooou???,” comes at me in excited child voices from every direction as I walk the path to, well, anywhere. They chant it and get very excited to have my attention. I say Melembe, which is hello to any passerby.
A comet of kids follows me where ever I go. They run around barefoot and in tattered clothing. The skin on their feet is calloused and thick. Their little legs are so so dirty and their clothes are unexplainably dirty and worn out and worn everyday. I chuckle when I see little cheeks exposed because of holes in their bottoms.
The Food: 1/26/08
Our first meal was at Koloba Steven’s house. He works as a cook at the school. After climbing what seemed like a mountain, we turned off the road to go up a trail that led us through a banana-tree-crowded mountainside neighborhood. The home is high on the hill – far from water and fire wood. The family greeted us with exuberant smiles. What happened next was the most incredible welcome I’ve ever experienced! The mother, Elizabeth, invited us and the children to pray. We bowed our heads respectfully and she said a few words in Lugisu. Then she said, “Let’s sing.” The entire family, mam, dad, and eight children aged three to 14 clapped their hands and sang the most beautiful song. The song had Hallelujah in it and a part where they sang to each of us individually. Then Elizabeth prayed again – a very long prayer. They brought a basin and clean water for us to wash our hands (good thing because I shook and gave high five to many dirty hands).
Then came the spread. They had rice, beans, matooke (mashed bananas), chapatti (flat fried bread), hard boiled eggs, and meat. Yes, I ate some of everything and I can’t tell you enough how delicious the food is here! It’s so natural and very well prepared. They cook with a lot of grease, but with no preservatives and certainly no hydrogenated fats.
After dinner, they brought us African tea (I did not partake) and ground nuts. G-nuts taste like peanuts, but they are smaller and yummier. When the meal was complete, they showed us their house, which was one room with divider walls. They also had a kitchen and store room.
Every meal since has been nearly as extensive and delicious. The time for preparation must be extensive. I would like to help make a meal, but I think I should hold off on that until close to when I go home. I might not want to know exactly what goes into the food that is going into me.
The Guest House:
Our home is right on the main road. It is a large building that consists of four bedrooms and a large main room in the center. Each room has a closet area and beds – that’s about it. Oh, I must not forget the veranda where the evenings can be enjoyed.
Security: 1/27/08
Many strange things happen in our living room. Today, a baby goat wandered in. Yesterday evening, a knock at our door brought in three official looking people. One was teacher Anne. Another was some local official who seemed to be one of their friends. The next was Matanga Sam. And Matanga Sam had a gun (probably an AK47, but I don’t know). They sat down like normal – yeah, that’s normal. But, he was introduced as our security guard who is on the property all night. OK, that’s alright. Honestly, I don’t feel like there is a need for an armed guard, but it is good for those at home to know I’m expressly protected. I have a sense that I need to be cautious, but the people are lovely and seemingly harmless. AAH has never had a problem during their 10 years here.
Fetching Water: 1/28/08
Near the school there is a protected water source. What that means is the water comes from a spring that is deep in the earth. A cement wall with a draining spout is built around it, and a fence encompasses a 10 foot radius from the source. Keeping animals and people away from the land above the source is important in preserving the cleanliness of the water. The quality of this source is high and can be determined by the fact that even when it rains, it runs clear. Other sources are less deep and water seeps in when it rains contaminating it. Contaminated water contains amoebas, cholera, worms and other water borne vectors that cause people diarrhea and worse problems. The people who get their water from this source lazily drink it straight from the tap. They rarely boil it because it is so clean. It doesn’t matter how good of reputation a source has, I want my water boiled!
I fetched the water today. I took, well actually David took, a 20 liter jerrycan (I’m sure I spelled that and many other things on my entire blog wrong!) down the hill to the source. When we got there, about a dozen kids were in line to fetch water. One little boy, who I saw numerous times throughout the day, didn’t have pants on and it didn’t seem to bother anybody (the kids I see who have no bottoms on are always 1-3 years old – I’ve yet to see anyone older baring all). We filled our can and started back up the hill. I took a try at carrying it and was largely unsuccessful. The water was sloshing everywhere, and I was tipping over! I will need to practice with less water before I take on that huge of a load again. 20 liters is nearly 42 lbs. Now, to emphasize my wimpiness, I hiked up the hill to school again this afternoon and saw three women carrying 20 liter jerrycans on their heads. They were full to the top and not a drop sloshed out. I’m amazed.
The Young Women’s Group: 1/28/08
Nine beautiful young women gather each week at the clinic to have a discussion group. Today’s topic was sex and sexuality. How appropriate for a former abstinence education professional. The group was lead by the PeaceCorp volunteer here, Karine, and Wilson, the village health worker. The girls were embarrassed by the topic, which primarily discussed feelings and behaviors in a platonic relationship verses feelings and behaviors in a boyfriend relationship. No dirty details discussed this time around. Next time, they will talk about family planning.
All I wanted was to take the girls in my arms and tell them how beautiful they are, how much they’re worth, and what they can become. I wanted to tell them how to say no and all the reasons why they should wait. The girls asked how to say no, but Karine deflected and said we’ll discuss refusal skills in a few weeks. Dhhhhaaaaa!! A few weeks?!?! They want to know NOW – can we please talk about it??
Wilson introduced me at the end. I did tell them they are beautiful, and I want to be their friend. They burst up in laughter when he translated my message. I was worried they were laughing at me, but when I asked Wilson, he said, “No, they hear it as praise. They are bashful.”
The final item of business was the tea. Pretty much the only reason the girls come is because of the African tea that is served. But today, nobody brought water so no tea was made. They organized what is referred to as a rotational fund. Each week, the girls have the option to contribute a few shillings to the pot. When they get enough, they buy a chicken or goat for one of the girls until all of them get one. So they’re really learning how to pool their resources. Next week, Lorna would bring the water because she lives the closest. But each of the girls must bring her a piece of firewood for her efforts. That sounds fair enough. Economy of things is different here. People don’t really own much and there aren’t banks. Tomorrow will take care of itself is the primary attitude. They chop firewood when they need it. They buy food at the market each day. They work odds and ends jobs rather than secure real work. It seems rather inefficient, yet, it’s a simple system and it works. Food doesn’t rot. There are plenty of kids to get wood. And enough work to keep everyone busy, even though a stroll through town would convey a lazy façade.
Going to the workshop: 1/28/08
In effort to improve the guesthouse, we sought out for shelves today. The workshop is down the street and we heard that shelves can be made for 40,000 shillings (about $30). Teacher Godfrey joined us – Muzungas will get ripped off, especially muzungas from AAH. This was quite the process. To get the correct measurements, the carpenter came to the guesthouse. It was decided that we needed four bookshelves that were 5’x5’x12”. Negotiating the price was challenging, but after a few minutes Ruth took out a piece of paper and wrote down our order. She signed it and so did the carpenter. Within the week, we should have four shelves for 160 shillings. Our shelves cost more because they will be varnished.
On our walk back to the school, we saw a little upheaval. A father had a boy in a grip and was beating him with a stick. They boy was wailing dramatically. It was quite obvious that he was in some sort of a fight with the other boys there. Soon the mamma came out and started yelling at the dad. I’ve never seen abusive behavior before except on TV. This kind of discipline doesn’t seem to be a frequent occurrence here, but seeing it leaves an impression.
Preparing the school 1/30/08:
I never quite know what my day is going to bring me here. But a few things are predictable. School starts next week creating a “to do” list that is full of prepping and cleaning classrooms. The P7 students from 2007 wrote scholarship essays and applications. We assisted them and checked their writing for grammar mistakes. Then we took on the strenuous project of moving the desks from the library, cleaning them in the yard, then placing them in the classrooms. Good thing we had students around. We had to tear them away from the movie that was playing in one of the classrooms – yay for power (they don’t often call it electricity)! By the finish of morning, we had everything in place.
Word from the wise 1/29/08:
Papa is Uncle John’s father. In other words, he is John Wanda’s father and very respected in the village and surrounding area. I passed him on the road to school and commented on how busy he is with his many roles and responsibilities. He said, “If I keep moving, I will not feel my aches.” Now that is wisdom.
Ox Fam Community Health Education and Skits 1/30/08:
I was invited yesterday to attend a health video at the Bumwalukani Primary School at 11:00 today. Anxious to see what kind of health video would be playing (praying for power, and wondering where in the world the primary school secure funds for a TV?), I left my duties at school and journeyed down to the school at the bottom of the hill. I arrived at 11:30 and nobody was there. Wilson, the organizer, was missing and only a few children stared at me as I approached the building. ‘How are you?’ came at me from every direction as usual. My presence in the middle of the village school yard was quite strange, I’m sure. So I hiked back up to Arlington.
At about 1:00, Wilson came to the school urgently looking for me. The program had started, and he wished me to be present. So I went. As we turned the corner into the school yard, I couldn’t believe my eyes. The ENTIRE village had gathered and were waiting for the program to begin. I was given a seat on a chair in the front of the crowd and introduced to a few of the health workers. Then everything began.
The video had nothing to do with TV. Ox Fam, a health outreach organization, came to the village with performers who sang songs and performed skits to teach about health topics. Today, we learned about keeping a clean house, safe water, and malaria. The native song and dance filled the crowd with energy and humor.
I started walking home after the performance. The children who followed me had a flat disk or slice of a tree trunk that they liked to roll along the ground to each other. I picked it up and threw it like a Frisbee. Wow did that excited the children. For 30 minutes I threw the Frisbee back and forth to about a dozen and a half children. I would say, “are you ready” and they would say, “I am ready.” I hope I can teach them how to play Ultimate sometime.
Our first chicken 1/30/08:
The people here take kindness, graciousness, and generosity to a whole new level. We Americans have a lot to learn from them about neighborly kindness, hospitality, and respect. We were invited for tea at Jimmy’s home. He is one of the S2 students who leaves for secondary school next week. They served us cold sodas to begin with – oh how lovely was the Fanta! Then we feasted on g-nuts and sweet bananas. Truly, their generosity at this point reached their capacity to give. But as we left their humble abode, we heard a chicken squawking behind the house. Then, Jimmy’s father came around the corner and said to his son, “Jimmy, honor your guests.” Jimmy placed the bird in Cynthia’s hands. It was a gift to all of us for coming to their home.
Although we can do nothing with a chicken, taking it is all we can do. Refusing is offensive. That hen probably provided the family with eggs for food and income, and could have been their only one. I feel humbled by their generosity. I feel humbled by this entire country. People have so little, yet they have something to give. Even though their concept of time is not the same as ours (believe me, 1:00 pm is nothing near 11:00 am), time is theirs to give. They stop to say hello. They stay for time. They never hurry. This attitude conveys a sense of caring kindness and concerned friendship.
I pray every day that I might love the people here. I absorb as much of what is happening around me as I can.
Life of the children:
Children are everywhere I look. They hang out in the trees, the fields, the stream, the mountains. They don’t have toys and don’t seem to be interested in organized games. They just hang out. Their tattered clothing is telling of their tough play. Kids of all ages congregate together. They chase cows. They sit on the hillside. They play with the animals. They work. They are so different from American children.
They don’t have toys. From a young age, they are given responsibilities. Yet, they seem so happy. They seem to have a sense of what they are to become – adults. They know they will grow big and when they do, they will need to have skills, jobs, families, and friends. But at the same time, they live carefree lives of children – singing and dancing and laughing and playing.
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