People and Problems

While the western world is debating important topics like should NYs governor go to jail, should prostitution be legal, and when is The Office coming out with new episodes (Nathan updated me on current events) the villagers worry about things like what they're going to eat for breakfast. They usually compensate by eating a huge dinner in case they won't get another meal until dinner the next day. They also worry about paying school fees, which are a joke considering that Universal Primary Education is a program the government boasts of. Education is available to all, but not without cost. Mostly, the "fees" consist of bags of cement and $30,000 shillings per term.

But I like the kids. They bring me the most perspective. They don't worry too much. It's pretty normal to see little ones with no pants on - not a worry. I'm sure they actually have pants, but their one pair is likely hanging on the line to dry. The kids don't really worry much about getting dirty either. Staying clean is not an effortless task in this place, so the kids forget trying all together. It cracks me up. However, one disconcerting picture you'll frequently see is one of these children without pants on carrying a panga about the size of his or her torso. A panga is like a dull machete useful in the fields.

I'm also learning lessons about child rearing here. Kids are treated much like adults. It's not unusual to see a four year old carrying a baby on her back like mothers do or to see a young child carrying a 10 liter jerry can full of water on his or her head. I tried to carry a 20 liter can with my arms and didn't even make it more than 50 yards. These kids also tend to act and talk like adults at very young ages - rarely bashful or fussy and always willing to shake a hand. They have the best carefree smiles! Muna muna - that means smile like when you take pictures. I think the way these kids are treated makes them behave alarmingly well and independent. They don't get spoiled or overly protected so they learn to fend for themselves. There are thousands of them everywhere (most women have 6-12 children) so they learn to get along with others. And they are expected to work as soon as they can walk so they never complain about having to do chores because it's just part of life.

In many ways, life is peaceful here. Villagers seem happy and have a good sense of humor. But I can't help noticing an undercurrent of conflict and violence throughout peaceful daily life. Yesterday, I was in a matatu (a taxi) riding back to the village from Mbale (the nearest town) and the lady next to me, with her son, was not able to pay the conductor for the ride. I was zoned out listening to my Ipod when the next thing I know, she flung her body over the seat at the man and started attacking him. She even ripped the shirt off of his friend. She settled down a bit, but the entire taxi was in uproar regarding the situation. She attempted to get out at the next stop, but the conductor wouldn't let her. So she tried to force her way out while he was slamming the door on her over and over again. Then she tried to get out through the window. I have this image in my mind of a woman's body half way through a van's sliding door window flailing back and forth as the conductor and others from the crowd that had gathered tried to force the door shut while her arm was in the way. It was horrific. As soon as she began to scream and cry I couldn't take it any more. I asked the woman behind me what the problem was and found out she wasn't going to pay the 2,500 shillings she owed. That's like $1.50 and I just went on a souvenir shopping spree and spent $45,000. I felt horrible and reacted without thinking. I suddenly was yelling at the conductor, "I will pay." He saw and heard me, but the violence didn't stop. At this point she was out of the car, but the gathered crowd was dense and didn't allow her escape. She was screaming and crying and everyone was yelling at each other. Her poor boy, 3 years old, was balling. I threw myself half-way out of the matatu between the woman and the conductor and took her face in my hands. In attempt to calm her, I told her to settle down over and over again and that I was going to pay. The conductor then said, "you pay - you give me the money." I grabbed my purse and gave him 5,000 for me and for the woman with her boy. That's all it took. The man drew back and the woman was free. A minute or two later, we're on our way. I was outraged! I can't imagine what was going to happen to that woman if I hadn't intervened. The rest of the ride was rather sober. Sensing a bit of cold shoulder from the rest of the car, especially the driver, I wondered if I did the right thing. Every one of those passengers could have used my assistance legitimately. I'm frustrated that people aren't good to each other. I'm frustrated that clearly that woman has more problems than just a lack of money - if everyone lacks money, what made her react violently? I don't know.

Life seems cheap here (I'm not the first to think that - Bono points it out in his foward to The End of Poverty by Jeffrey Sachs). The fact is people die a lot here. They die from curable and preventable diseases every day and they still kill and hurt each other. I saw 2 men arguing on the road while another lay on the side in immense pain. Would people quit arguing and help the man! Anyway, I'm rambling now and you are lucky we have power because this is turning into a long blog. (Having power is a simple joy in my life these days - when it's around, I'm especially happy.)